If you are reading this post it is because you have discovered that bare root trees are a much better and much cheaper alternative to those expensive potted trees from your local garden store (or if you are still unclear on the benefits of bare root trees check out my other post here). But maybe you’ve never actually planted a bare root tree and now those trees you ordered a couple months ago are sitting in front of you, bare root and all, and you find yourself wondering: “now what?”. Fear not, planting bare root trees is quite easy!
Cliff notes version:
Here’s a quick and dirty summary for those of you who just want to get out there and plant. If you want more detail read the rest of the post.
- Soak your tree for a few hours
- Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the spread out root system.
- Backfill with native soil, making sure to spread the roots system out naturally
- Tamp the soil gently to remove voids, and mulch well
- Install deer or rabbit protection, if necessary
- Provide an initial watering
In depth version:
For the rest of you who want just a little more information and context, read on!
Besides your trees, you’ll need the following items:
- A shovel
- A bucket of water
- Mulch
- Fencing/caging (optional)
When you get your trees, open them up to inspect them to be sure everything is in order (the tags match what you ordered, there was no damage during shipping and that the roots are packed in a damp media). If the roots are well packed in damp media like sawdust or peat moss they will be fine to sit in a cool, dark space like an unheated garage for a few days if you can’t plant right away.
Soaking your trees for several hours (3-6 hours) prior to planting can be helpful if the roots seemed slightly dry when you inspected them. This soak will help to fully hydrate them before going into the ground. Bring the bucket of water containing the trees with you as you go around planting so the trees don’t dry out while you are working.
When you are ready to plant, choose a site that is appropriate for the species you are planting (adequate sun, sufficient drainage, enough space for the mature size of the tree) and dig a hole that is slightly wider and deeper than the root system of your tree. Bare root trees are usually quite small so the hole shouldn’t be too hard to dig. Place your tree in the hole with one hand and begin backfilling with the other hand (always use native soil to backfill rather than amended soil or compost). Be sure to spread the roots out as you back fill rather than compressing all the roots straight downward. The position a root is planted in is the position it will stay in so take care to avoid roots that circle the planting hole or make abrupt changes in any direction. Ideally all lateral roots should spread outward and downward. If your tree has a taproot it should point down and not be obstructed in any way. Aim to have the root flare (the area where the roots originate from the stem) planted a bit below the soil line. I like to err slightly deeper than shallower as I find the soil inevitably settles and if your tree isn’t planted deep enough the root flare will be exposed later in the season. If it is difficult to position the tree at the right height while backfilling and spreading the roots you can create a mound or cone of soil inside the planting hole and set the tree on that mound. This helps to set the correct height and position the roots in the downward and outward position. This method only works with fibrous root systems that originate at the same area on the stem. If your tree has a taproot or has roots growing from a long portion of the stem (like you often find on the rootstocks of grafted trees) the cone method isn’t useful. It may be helpful to have a second set of hands available.
Once your tree is backfilled and tamped, add a generous layer of mulch (at least 4” but preferably 6”) in a ring around your tree. The mulch ring should extend at least one foot, but ideally two feet out from the stem. This extra effort will pay huge dividends in the future. The mulch will help to retain moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil health. Don’t skip this step! My preferred mulch is wood chips. The course, mixed chips that arborists generate when they chip up debris from their jobs. Your local municipality may offer this material for free. You can also do what I do and stop when you see a tree care crew working in your area and ask if they will dump their load of chips at your place. If you can’t get your hands on wood chips any other organic matter will suffice. Leaf litter, straw or hay (these two can create a rodent habitat though so be careful), or bagged mulch will work. The point is just to keep the soil covered and prevent weeds or turf grass from competing with the tree.
If you know you have deer or rabbits in your area then install some sort of cage around your new tree. In my area, a tree isn’t worth planting unless it is also protected. I have found 2”x4” opening welded wire works well. I use ½” electrical conduit as my stake. That combination is the most affordable and effective method I have found.
If there isn’t any rain in the immediate forecast, give your new plantings a deep initial watering and then sit back and wait for spring (or if you are spring planting, sit back and wait for the first leaves to emerge)!
If you are in the market for trees please check out what I offer! I grow primarily food bearing plants like apples, peaches, plums, pears, chestnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and a whole lot more! Holler if you have any tree related questions!